Does anyone really play this on a continue basis?
Lately for the past day or two, I've been playing a NL table and pineapple table on UB. I'm wondering what are some good starting hands? And then how do u make ur decision on discards?
For starting hands, I tend to see if there are any hands that go well w/hold 'em when I make a raise or something or say I have a pair w/a good kicker. Also, calling w/connectors w/only 2 suits... say there is 567 rainbow in my hand i haven't been calling that... but if 2 cards look good together I'll see the flop and then go from there..
now on the flop before you discard say I miss completely i fold of course (since its limit i found there is no getting rid of most people). but say i have QQK and the board has J-10-5 rainbow would u more than likely go w/ the pair or the oesd? I have in the past tried going for the Oesd as there are more outs for the straight then there is for my pair. Mainly, I've been going w/my outs and intuition. Is this a good strategy?
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Thread: crazy pineapple strategy?
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10-20-2005 #1
crazy pineapple strategy?
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10-20-2005 #2Poker Hustler
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Posts
- 1,161
The only strategy I've seen for CP is the chapter in Super System 2. I have yet to read it myself.
Last edited by Phytopath; 10-21-2005 at 07:00 AM.
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10-20-2005 #3
id keep the QQ @ short table and play the KQ if many ppl in the hand.
id say strategy is dont play too loose. 3 hole cards make your hands look stronger than they are. im guessing AAk is sweet.I get more ass than a toilet seat. All shapes/colors/sizes.

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10-20-2005 #4
Do you play omaha? Same concept, you don't want a card that is a "dangler" - you want all 3 cards to be related somehow either for straight draws or maybe two hearts, etc. So a pair with a random cards is not good - say 10h10s4d. The seeibg the flop rate is usually 60% so when I play on Ub it is pretty easy to make money by just playing tight aggressive. I usually don't play a hand in CP unless I can raise it preflop or it is a REALLY good drawing hand and then I'll limp. Try to get your VPIP down to 30-35%.
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10-21-2005 #5
Crazy
I had some fpp from playmoney on UB and used them to play crazy pinapple..
I spent about two hours playing and to this day - I don't know why
1] I won when I did
2} I lost when I did
of course I busted out...still havnt sorted out the rules..lolSee me playing $10/$20NL like it was play money
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?...405&q=xxdemexx
Doberman: "but Sarge, isn't poker gambling and just luck?"
Sgt. Bilko:" not the way I play it"
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10-21-2005 #6
I'd say thats about what I do as far as playing aggresive type... it seems though that a lot of people that i've been on the tables will have their draws on the flop (mainly flushes I see) and will chase 'em down if its going to be cheap.
Originally Posted by growlers
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10-21-2005 #7
I've been working on some CP and CP8 strategy.
CP:
As growlers said, danglers are bad. You want three connected cards, like a pair with a suited connector, AAKs is probably the best startng hand around. Any pair with a suited ace is worth playing (and raising from any spot with TTAs+), and same with a suited king if you can get in cheap/late. You really need three strongly connected cards if possible.
Hands like
while having good str8 potential, lack enough connectivity and suitedness to make them playble unless your very cheap/late. But hands like
are worth playing, treat them like as you would any SC in hold'em, they have very good straight potential and decent enouogh flush potential. Beware though being dominated in the flush draw, its more likely than in HE to have flush draws outs there, since people can choose to play for the nut flush.
The discard is easy enough. See which two cards play the best. Dont play for the best hand on the flop play for the best hand on the river. Basically play the hand that has the best equity.
Ex: You have in the BB
and the flop is
. You have lots of raods to take here, the Pair, Straight draw or flush draw. The nut flush draw with the Pair is your best hand possibility, and you want to be raising, maybe even capping the flop, slowing down on the turn.
CP8:
This is a totally different beast than Omaha 8ob. It is VERY difficult to scoop without the wheel in CP8. In O8, you get to use 2 out of 4 cards twice, here you can only use upto 2 cards total. Also unlike in O8, you can play the board, so if the board reads A2345, everybody is chopping the low, but anybody with a 6 or 67 is taking the high. Here, you need to be going for solid lows with very strong high draws, or just a very strong high hand. AA2s, A23s, AK2s, A2xs, KKAs, etc. Again, Unlike O8b, where the low is the key part of the hand, here the High is strong point. A23s is a great hand because it offers excellent counterfeit protection and nut flush potential. But basically, dont be playing a hand with only low potential, you need a hihg hand to go with it.
The Flop and Discard is a much more difficult situation than in High only, since we must now choose and commit in one direction, it is a rare 2 card hand that can go both ways with some strength. Again, we must decide which combination gives the best equity, and push hard in that direction. Since we are only playing A2 lows here, this decision is easy, either we have a nut low/draw or we don't. Even if out nut low got counterfeited, but we still ended up with a nut flush draw, play that hard, a good small suited card could win back that scoop for you.
Post discard is just your standard HE strategy.Last edited by Marm; 10-21-2005 at 07:59 AM.
Marm is back, maybe. Been off for 3 years. Rusty as Hell.
Luck is a Residue of Design.
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10-21-2005 #8
Shoulda left it at triple draw... there is no CP section in SS....
Originally Posted by Phytopath
Marm is back, maybe. Been off for 3 years. Rusty as Hell.
Luck is a Residue of Design.
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