so ive been playing alot of nl 6 max latley. my roll is steadily increasing. however ive been railing my friend lately and he is incredibly lag and he watched me and said i was playing well postflop but too tight preflop. he told me he can open any PP any position, among other things.
my friend is a very credible source, and if he tells me to raise more preflop im going to listen to him.
what hands do you guys OPEN with in EP, MP, and LP. what about off the blinds?
oh if it makes a dif im playing 100nl...
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07-26-2006 #1
NL 6 max thread (alex? gder? anyone else?)
Last edited by tightagressive; 07-26-2006 at 03:38 PM.
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07-26-2006 #2
Generally, in all forms of NL, I don't play starting hands by position because my postflop play is so strong. The only time that I'm conscious of my position PF in deciding whether to play or not is when I'm facing a raise.
The hands I open-raise with are:
AA-99
AK-AJ
KQ
KJ
QJs-45s
T8s-46s
I'll open limp with 88-22 to create multiway action, but i like raising with connectors because it's an excuse to bet the flop when I hit a big draw to build the pot, and disguise my hand when I hit, so I can come over the top hard and get away with it. People notice that I'm playing a lot of pots and taking stab at a lot of pots cheaply, so they tend to get really cute and play slow letting me dictate the action.
Facing a raise, it'll depend on my opponent, my position and how many are in pot. I'm extremly careful to re-raise because I don't want Villian coming over the top of me. It gives me a better chance at taking on the flop, but it takes away my chances to see a flop at times and worse it allows my opponents to set better traps.
My PF shorthanded play bites me in the ass at times against good trappers, but in general 6max is key on post-flop play. Knowing who are the calling stations is the biggest key, I'd say. This tells you who you can sucker-overbet with the goods and lay off with little to nothing. These people have no concept of this game being a 7 card game. They play the 2 cards that the books tell them to and that's all that matters to them. i don't like 6max. over $100 because there are less calling stations and I was really swingy, but with tables so black and white at $100, you can identify and adapt and since you have a strong postflop game, you're doing this already.
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07-26-2006 #3
Iv prolly only played 100 or less hands @ NL100, (but I imagine its tighter than NL50, so I guess my NL50 range would not only apply to NL100, but could even be loosened up)
obviously some tables play different from others. Obv you can tighten up losen up etc... But standard table is prolly: 1 agressive/smart player, 1 shortstack, 2 passive non-donk players that will eventually lose, and 1 donly. something along these lines.
Tables where I really tighten up (pfr= 8-10%) are ones where the game is absolutley fearless with like 3 deepstacks double barelling every raised flop. (and unless there are 1-2 total donkys seated, I will leave)
So now we know what kind of table we have; table where more or less, we are the boss (hopefully some scared tyight players seated). IF you look at some charts, youll see that the ods of running into a good hand are way less than a full ring, so you must adjust from the regular mind set.
Basically, Im raising 77+ UTG. I will 50% limp/50% raise 22-66 UTG. I will raise any PP from CO or button (in an unraised pot) almsot 90% of the time, button, prolly 95%, (so 22, yeah, 3.5bb raise). Mainly I hope to steal blinds with the low pp. If I see a flop, and they chek, a CBet should take it down etc...
Non pair hands;
UTG raises (80%) are; JQo+. both draw to top pair-good kicker. Sometinmes i will limp with them UTG, sometimes i will fold (KJ and AJ mainly). If they are suited, its almost an outo raise imo.
IF you are really in control, add in some high suited connectors like 8T, 9T, 89
Thats prettymuch the UTG range imo. Sometimes I will throw in 95s simply b/c its a sick looking hand once you think about it. I think UTG+1 in unraise pot has same range. Maybe add like 2 more connectors. Maybe A9+.
CO and OTB in an unraised pot are very loose. (once even if ppl begin to play back, I think you should keep raising). Range A8+ K6+ Q7+ J8+, suited 1 gappers 24s+, suited connectors 23s+, unsuited gappers 68o+, wildcard hand 95s. If the blinds are total tightasses, you should add in Ax.
These are all in unraised/unlimped pots. LImped comunity pots are weird. You can A, see a cheap flop, with good implied odds, or B, raise and collect the dead money. The true LAG (imo) comes in when someone raises, and you re-pop it with a marginal hand (instead of calling). I think this is my next mission in becoming a good 6 maxer. You want to be taking control away from other players, so that they play scared on the flops.
I prettymuch look for unopened pots and try to play those. It gives me good position, and the number of opponents left to act is smaller. Im not sure what kind of PFR the list I gave is, maybe 16%. PPl say you can have 20% pfr and own. My pfr used to be 9%, iv been able to work it up to about 14-15. My pfr on donky stakes is 20ish. smaple size is low, but im running @ about 12bb/100 after maybe 5k hands.
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